Back on the road!!

Well, for a couple of days, anyway!!  On our way to Shenandoah National Park for a visit, en route to cousin Pete's wedding in Virginia...feels so good to be back on the road! :-)

Zion National Park

Leaving the Grand Canyon North Rim we came into a crazy hail storm out of nowehere.  We left the casnyon and it was prpbably aorund 70 degrees out.  We travelled north for  maybe 20 miles and the temperature dripped into the low forties and then it started to hail and the road iced over. 



The rest of the ride to Zion was pretty, through the parts of the Kaibab National Forest, and of course, more cliffs, rocks and mountains. There was one cute little town as we got close to the East entrance of Zion, called Kanab. There was an immediately noticeable change in the look of the rocks as we approached Zion (see pics). 






Apparently, this was the upper plateau of the Zion canyon area with a unique look and feel, and it was a beautiful drive to the visitor center. There were two tunnels on the road, one definitely older than the other. The older one was a mile long and had large vehicle restrictions. When a large vehicle has to come through, the rangers have to stop all of the traffic on the other side of the tunnel. They manage this by giving a baton to the last car of that line of trucks and cars, and they are tasked with giving the baton to the ranger on the other side. We were the lucky baton holders!

We arrived in the late afternoon, and you could see the storms in the distance in multiple directions. Again, this was a recurring theme in this area, where it was beautiful in the morning, and then clouds and passing storms in the afternoon. We looked at the maps and newspaper information provided and talked to someone at the visitor center (where we of course, got our stamp!), and learned that the main road in the heart of Zion, called the Zion Scenic Highway was not open to cars, just the shuttle buses. It rides all along the Virgin River. Apparently, within the last 20 years or so, the park got so popular and traffic jams became a real problem so they implemented this shuttle system, and honestly, it works pretty well. The shuttle was very simple – you get on at the visitor center and you have 6-8 stops to choose from and it runs in a continuous loop. Shuttles come to each stop every 8-10 minutes, so you don’t have to wait long, and they run well into the evening, around 10 p.m. It’s 80 minutes round-trip, 40 out and 40 back.

So we decided to shuttle our way out, to get the lay of the land, take in the views, listen to the narration about what we were looking at, and what the attractions and trails were at each stop. We figured this would help us decide what we wanted to do the next morning, and we would also pick a stop on the way back to do a nice short evening hike to check things out. We decided to get off at the last stop, Temples of Sriwava. At this stop, there was a “Riverside Walk” trail that ran along the Virgin River about a mile out and a mile back. At the end of the trail was a big opening to the Virgin River with a little rocky beach, and that was the start of the Narrows Trail. The Narrows Trail was intriguing. The trail follows the Virgin River to its narrowest point, about 3-4 miles upstream, where the canyon walls are only 10 feet apart. And the trail IS the river and its riverbed, so in many instances you are wading or walking through parts of the river. This trail was closed when Bill and I walked out to it, because of the storms and potential for flash floods. It could become very dangerous to be stuck in the river when a flash flood comes, because it can bring large amounts of water and debris in a very short time, and there’s nowhere to go.

The trail many had recommended to us was Angel’s Landing. It was a 6.4 mile strenuous hike with +2000 ft elevation, up to Angel’s Landing. The narration on the shuttle bus indicated that it was not for children, or those not fit or w/ heart conditions, or those with a fear of heights. They actually said “there have been fatalities on this trail”, and they repeatedly tell the visitors that “your safety is your responsibility”. Oh, and there was a cable wire at the end of the trail that you hold on to get to the end of it – yikes! Another trail that was recommended was the Observation Point, which was a little longer than Angel’s Landing in distance, but less strenuous, less elevation gain, and less rock face, so a bit safer in wet conditions. Both supposedly had beautiful views from above. And we knew what the Narrows was all about, traversing the river with its own set of risks.

So we had to make a decision which trail to do the next day– Narrows, Angel’s Landing or Observation Point. Originally, Bill had his heart set on Angel’s Landing, but after hearing about all three we weren’t sure. We wanted to extend our stay, just so we could check them all out. As we talked about it, we also compared them to some of the other trails we did in the other parks, and it made us realize and verbalize some of the differences between the parks. For example, in Grand Canyon you climbed down into the canyon, only to have to climb back up. Zion was the opposite – you climb up, and then down. In the Tetons, although overall you climb up and then down, there were a lot of ups and downs throughout the trail. Since we had NOT done anything like the Narrows watertrail, Bill was eager to try it, but I was a little nervous about it. With all the storms we’d seen, and the fact that the trail had been closed that day for flash flood warnings, can you see why I might be nervous?

We rode the shuttle back, still unsure what to do. A park employee was catching a ride back and we over heard him talking to one of the visitors about the various trails, and got more information. He provided insight about each of the three trails we had been considering, and based on what he said, it eased our minds that we could probably do any of them as long as we were somewhat fit, and prepared with food and water, and also closed-toed shoes and a walking stick for the Narrows trail. Since we still couldn’t decide, we figured we would be prepared for any of them and make a final decision in the morning. We stopped in a general store and picked up $10 walking sticks, and a waterproof bag. We had a nice dinner at the “Bit & Spur” near our hotel, where we shared a steak dinner and delicious fish tacos. We returned to our hotel room to catch some Olympics and shuteye.

We ultimately decided to do the Narrows trail, just because it was something unique. We packed the waterproof bag with some essentials and got an early start since we were heading to Bryce Canyon later in the afternoon. Hiking the Narrows Trail, along and IN the Virgin River, was probably the coolest thing we did so far on the trip. There were definitely spots where you had to walk through the river, and in some spots it was really moving, so there’s no way we could have done it without the walking sticks. We had to keep reminding ourselves to look backwards at the unbelievable view. Since it was early, there wasn’t much sun, but where it did come in or reflect off the rocks, it was so beautiful. We took a few select pictures, but not as many as we would have liked, because the camera was packed in the waterproof bag and it was a pain to keep stopping to take it out. And I had left my phone in the car because I didn’t want to risk anything happening to it. We were afraid the water would be cold, but it really wasn’t bad and we got used to it quickly. We walked for about two hours and got just past the Orderville Canyon, and decided to go just a little bit more before turning around. We got around the bend, and there was a huge sunny spot, so we stopped there and found a big rock to take a short rest on before heading back. Just up ahead you could see the walls of the canyon were approaching their narrowest, only about 10’ apart. We think that’s what they call “Wall Street”. We started heading back and quickly realized that what people had told us was true…the river did become a busy highway as the day progressed. The walk back was a little more difficult just because we had to traverse around so many people coming from the opposite direction, and it was also much warmer since the sun was approaching high noon. All in all, a wonderful experience!

We got back to the car and hit the road for Bryce Canyon National Park.

 

 

Grand Canyon North Rim

We left the South Rim the morning of 7/31, and started out for the North Rim, a 5 hour trip.  We made some stops along the way in the park as we headed out towards Desert View en route to North Rim.  We stopped at the Tsuyan Ruins, which was a neat little area of the ruins of an old village (1185 AD) of about 30 people. 

 

It had the footprints of all of their old buildings – dwellings, storage areas and kivas (spiritual gathering structure).  The dwellings were interesting.  You could tell from the pictures on the placards there, that the only entrances were from the top of the buildings – no doors.  So there were ladders leaning against all of the buildings for people to get in and out of them. 

 

 

 

The next stop was really cool – the East Desert View and the Watchtower area.  It was another view of the canyon, but it was a great 360 degree view.  The Watchtower is a building (see pic) that was designed by Mary Coulter.  The original request was for a structure to capitalize on the magnificent view, but in keeping with the natural beauty and culture of the area.  She was quite successful!  It replicated an Indian structure and had Indian drawings throughout the interior and all of the structural materials blended so naturally with the area.  You couldn’t beat the view, and we also got a stamp!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Near Navajo reservation, start of canyon

 

 

We exited the park and drove along the Navajo Reservation, which is a massive area – take a look at a map!  You have to get to the first crossing of the Colorado Bridge, east of the Canyon, in order to go up and around to the North Rim.  Right at that area is the Navajo Bridge and Lee’s Ferry (see more pics!).  We got some really beautiful pictures of some birds at the bridge – possibly CA Condors?   There are two bridges at the Navajo Bridge, the original (now pedestrian only) and a newer one (built for vehicular traffic).  It goes over the Colorado River, and is a pretty awesome sight – well worth the stop, and we got a stamp!  

 

We took a small detour and went to Lee’s Ferry – that’s where all the rafters enter the Colorado and float down towards the Grand Canyon.  Every morning on South Rim, you could hear the planes and helicopters flying tourists up to that area, so they could float their way down to a certain point, where they then get bussed back to Grand Canyon area.  Lee’s Ferry was named after a Mormon family, of course, and they ferried people back and forth across the river before the bridge was built.  Bill left the car lights on while we checked out the bridges so we came back to a dead battery.  This was our single car mishap for the 10,000 miles.  Not bad!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In that same area, the Paria River meets the Colorado, and we saw the first rapid in the Grand Canyon area – it’s actually called a “riffle”, which is just shy of being a rapid by definition.  We got to walk along the riffle area, which had a sandy beach area with lots of rocks, and lots of little lizards, and it was where the Vermilion Cliffs meet the Echo Cliffs.  The drive to this area was cool too – besides the various cliffs, there was a stretch of area called the “Balanced Rocks”, and the pictures are self-explanatory.

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped at the Visitor Center for the Kaibab National Forest in Jacobs Lake (another stamp, but not really legit for the NP Passport, oh well, it’s a stamp!).  The Forest Ranger there was very knowledgeable, and told us all about the area – the weather patterns, the people, etc.  A storm was brewing outside – a recurring theme in the area, the afternoon storms.  We chatted with the ranger while waiting out the deluge, and then continued on our journey to the North Rim, another 40 miles down the road from Jacobs Lake.  For the record there is not really a lake in that town, just a big kettle hole (i.e., sink hole).

We arrived at the North Rim around 3 p.m. and checked into the Grand Canyon Lodge, which was right there by the Visitor Center, about 15-20 miles from the park entrance.  It was a cute little area, and the main area of the north rim.  There was a General Store, the Rough Rider Saloon (coffee/café by day, bar by night), a deli, the Lodge, and all the little cabins.  We had a cute one room cabin with a gas fireplace, along a trail that led to Bright Angel Point, and along the east side of the north rim.  The entire late afternoon into early evening was spent watching the rain storm ping-pong between the north and south rim.  Our cabin had a sweet little covered porch with rocking chairs, so we sat there for a few hours just taking it all I – the views, the people walk along the rim trail in the dry spells, and we made some long overdue calls home to say a quick hello.  We had made a reservation for dinner in the lodge later that evening and had a nice meal.

We woke up 5:15 a.m. the next morning to watch the sunrise at Bright Angel Point.  It was a little cloudy, so we didn’t see much of the sunrise, but Angel Point was beautiful, and the stillness of early morning was so peaceful.  What a nice way to start the day.

 

We packed up and hit the post office to mail some postcards, the gift shop to buy some souvenirs and gifts, and the deli to grab some breakfast and coffee before hitting the road.  On the way out of the park, we stopped off to see Imperial Point, one of the best vistas on the north rim.  We took some pictures and then headed on our way for Zion National Park.  Although a short stay on the north rim, it was a great spot and we enjoyed the 18 hours we were there.

Grand Canyon South Rim

As we were heading north on the last leg to the canyon, we saw one of the best sunsets to date.  It totally rivaled the sunset we saw heading west from Salt Lake City just a week or so earlier.  We arrived at the Best Western at the South Entrance, and were pretty happy with the location and the place itself.  We had dinner at Saguaro Bar in the hotel and then rested up for our first big day in GCNP – SR!

We hit the Visitor Center first (got the stamp!) and reviewed the info to come up with a plan for day 1 on the South Rim.  We decided to walk the South Rim trail – a nice level trail, with tons of vistas overlooking the Grand Canyon.  We took the shuttle to Monument Creek and then walked it all the way back to the Visitor Center, probably about 7-8 miles.  We took tons of pictures of the unbelievable views.  About three quarters of the way, a storm was approaching and all the literature and signs clearly warn you to move away from the rim during thunder and lightning, so we picked up the pace significantly (flashbacks of running off the mountain and trails in the Tetons!).

View of Bright Angel Trail

We came to one of the more unique lookout points which offered a 360 degree view.  At this spot there were some large birds flying around.  We quick took some pics and got off this outcropping.  Other hikers thought the birds were condors.



View of Canyon Village

We continued and got off the trail and stopped in at El Tovar in the Grand Canyon Village for some lunch.   The storm moved away so we got back out to finish the hike back to the car. 

  

 

We noticed some people climbing out to a lookout point and decided to join them.  This took some effort but offered a lookout from a rock jutting out into the canyon.  Aileen made her way first and then I joined her. 

 For some odd reason people have decided to post their old gum on this one tree.  Have you have ever seen bras hanging from a tree next to a ski lift.  I guess it’s the same thing.  When we got to the furthest point there was a couple with a small dog sitting in the edge.  The man was playing music with some type of recorder.  If you have ever heard of Zanfir, that’s what he sounded like – in a good way!  We sat there and tried to enjoy the moment and the music but this was a little difficult with the one couple who needed to have pictures from every angle; and these pictures were very orchestrated and required loud direction for some reason.  Oh well.

We continued on once again up to the last stop of the day.  This was a small visitor center which had several exhibits including a large relief of the canyon.  The literature said many years ago different geologists and naturalists got together and picked this one spot to represent the grandeur of the canyon.  Can’t argue here as the view was spectacular.

That evening we went to the Grand Lodge across the street for some happy hour, followed by a decent steak dinner for me, and awesome jambalaya for Bill.  We made it an early night, in preparation for the big hike we planned for the next day.

We ventured out very early the next morning for the Bright Angel Trail.  We took the shuttle out to the “Train Depot” stop that leads to the trailhead.  Bright Angel goes down into the canyon, and ultimately across and up to the north rim, if you’re so inclined to do so - we were not.  We chose to walk three miles down, and three miles back up, and that was enough!   Personally, I prefer to hike UP first, and then DOWN, like the Tetons and lots of other mountains and canyons, but that was not the case here. 

On the way down we were passed by a group of mules.  We had heard you could ride a mule down into the canyon but we felt more comfortable n our own two legs.  The hike down had its own issues as you constantly need to restrain yourself from going too fast.  Your toes end up jammed into the top of your shoe.  We hit two rest stops on the way down at 1.5 miles and 3 miles.  At the 3 mile stop we sat for awhile.  There was a great sign there stating that going down is option but going back up is mandatory.  It was clear in this park and others that individuals are responsible for their own safety.

The hike back up took a little longer – not twice as long as some of the literature suggests.  We actually made it back up in probably 10% longer time.  The first 2 miels up we made in record pace and almost thought coming down was easier.  Of course, the last mile up proved to be difficult and very tiring; thus erasing any thought that going up was easier.



It was an exhausting trip and we felt the effects for days to come, but it was well worth it and it gave us a sense of accomplishment.  We finished the hike in early afternoon, and as we were sitting outside eating our PB&J lunch, another storm came in and it started to rain. 

We went into the Bright Angel Lodge and had a beer in the lounge to wait out the rain.  After it passed we took the shuttle back to the car, and decided to hit Canyon Pizza for an early, simple dinner on the way back to the hotel.   We decided to relax in the hot tub at the hotel, while we ran a quick load of laundry, which worked out great.  We spent the rest of the evening watching the Olympics and had another early night.

The next morning we checked out and started to make our way to the North Rim.  Interestingly enough, the two rims are 10 miles apart, and it’s 22 miles to walk and 215 miles to drive!  So we had a 5+ hour trip ahead of us.